Digital Photography Special Interest Group


24
Jun 08

Great digital photography debate topics

Technology is no different than politics in that there are a variety of topics that people have opinions on. While you may not know much about these topics now, what you know about them can have a great impact on knowing who to listen to when it comes to learning more about digital photography and related topics.

PC vs. Mac:

The Mac people will tell you that Macs are better for graphics, easier to use more stable.

PC people will argue that Macs are over priced, you can do anything with a Mac that you can do with a PC and Macs won’t run the programs that most people use.

What’s the truth? As with most debates, where you stand depends on your perspective as all things are relative.

Macs are easier in the sense that it typically takes fewer steps to get from point A to point B, they don’t get viruses and spyware as much and applications are very well developed before they are released; this leads to fewer crashes. Of course there are rare exceptions in all cases.

PCs are easier if you depend on the advice and help from those around you to get you through. Chances are your tech friends and relatives don’t speak Mac. Macs will not run any PC software out of the box. You must either buy Mac versions of programs like Microsoft Office or find alternatives that run on Mac.

If you primarily use your computer for basic tasks like email, digital photography, word processing and Internet, Macs are likely a great way to go. If you are using the computer for office work such as Excel, databases, or custom software associated with your business, you may find that Macs just won’t cut it.

Canon vs. Nikon:

There are dozens of camera manufacturers, but Canon and Nikon are the two major parties that tend to have the greatest loyal followings.

Canon was always the underdog in the film photography world, it wasn’t until they made the move to convert everything to digital that they became serious competition.

Canon film cameras were typically the lower priced alternative for photo enthusiasts. Nikon had the F series of cameras that were used by professional photographers all over the world. Then the world went digital and Canon decided set the standard for photo innovation.

When it comes to serious cameras, both companies produce wonderful cameras worthy of their following. There are a few reasons that each manufacturer stands out.

What’s the truth?

Nikons in general have a more sturdy feel with a shutter that makes a beautiful clapping sound – it may not seem to matter what the shutter sounds like, but it gives the camera a more traditional aesthetic.

Canon’s typically set the standard. They are usually the first to set new standards in shutter speed, megapixel and zoom speed in their higher end models. They are also usually the first to break price barriers on the low and high end. Most 35mm professional photographers such as photo journalists, sports and portrait photographers now use Canons, the industry that once belonged almost exclusively to Nikon in the US.

CCD vs. CMOS:

Just a quick geeky topic here. CCD and CMOS are the current sensor technologies that digital cameras use as “film.” These sensors are exposed to light like film and then the image is saved to the memory.

 CCD is the more traditional technology as it is cheaper to produce and is usually smaller in size.

CMOS contains more technology on the chip and consumes less power. It also costs slightly more to produce but this is quickly changing and many manufacturers are now switching to CMOS for their DSLRs and higher end cameras.

When it comes to image quality, there is no definable difference. Hand a photo to a photographer or camera expert and he will not be able to tell you what kind of sensor was used to take the photo based on quality alone.

Picasa vs. Photoshop Album (combined with Photoshop Elements)

Each of these products does the same thing but they are different in important ways.

We have exhausted the topic of Picasa – it is easy to use, it allows you to backup your photos, create photo CDs, order prints, and organize your photos into albums.

Photoshop Album is a piece of Photoshop Elements. Like Picasa it allows you to organize your photos, create projects and find lost pictures.

What’s the truth?

Picasa is fast and very intuitive. However, if you do a lot of photo manipulation it is nice to have Album incorporated with Elements.

Flash drives vs. CD/DVDs vs. external hard drives:

You know you should backup your photos, but how should you do it?

Flash drives last a long time but they are very expensive when compared to optical media and hard drives. They are also easy to erase and lose. On the other hand their portability gives them a nice advantage in some cases.

CD/DVDs are inexpensive and can be read in any computer. They are also durable and multiple copies are easy to do. On the other hand, they can be difficult to create and can only be written to one time.

Hard drives are cheap and can hold every photo you will ever take. However, they are not as portable and can have major malfunctions leading to the loss of all data.

Ultra zoom vs. DSLR:

Ultra zooms are digital cameras with large built-in zoom lenses. DSLRs are cameras that allow you to change the lenses.

Often people assume that DSLRs are the ultimate camera and all other cameras are for novices. Before buying that DSLR, there are some important pros and cons to consider.

DSLR’s take up much more space and weigh more. When you go for the shot, will you have the right lens attached?

Changing lenses must be done very carefully. dust on your sensor can lead to spotty pictures at best and a ruined camera at worst.

Ultra zooms are light and often feature more powerful and faster lenses than the kit lenses that come with DSLR models.

On the positive side, DSLRs provide the ability to add on to the camera and increase the camera’s uses. Adding a flash, extra lens, shutter release, etc. can be a big advantage if you are looking at taking the hobby seriously.




28
May 08

Understanding exposure

Theory and Practice of Photography

Aperture:

Aperture is the setting of the iris of the camera lens. Just as your pupils in your eyes expand and contract to let in more or less light, you can do the same with your camera by setting the Aperture.

The Aperture measurement is called F-stop. The higher the F-stop number, the smaller the iris is set in your camera.

The trade-off: Each concept of photography seems to have a trade-off that prevents you from wanting to use it all the time.

With Aperture the trade-off is called depth of field. In a perfect world, you would leave the iris open wide all the time so that you could let in as much light as possible. However, when the iris is open wide your focus distance is much shorter. This means if you are taking a picture of your family in front of the St. Louis Arch in the distance, your family may be in focus at a low F-stop, but everything in the background will be blurry.

Tricky Tip: Remember, the higher the number on your F-stop, the smaller the iris is and the less light will come in. This means that when you stop up, you are really making the iris smaller.

F-stop is usually measured in numbers starting with 2.8 and going up to 22. The longer the lens, the higher your lowest F-stop possible. This is because long lenses can't let in as much light.

Film Speed (ISO & ASA):

Film speed determines how sensitive your film (or digital camera sensor is to light). The higher your film speed, the less light you need to get a fully exposed picture.

This makes higher film speeds great for sports and low light conditions because the shutter and can be set faster at a lower F-stop.

The trade-off: If faster film speeds are more sensitive to light and capture fast action better, why not always use a high film speed?

The higher the film speed – the more grainy the photo is. Grain refers to the tiny dots of random colors that appear in a photo. Shooting with 400, 800 or 1600 speed film or sensor settings will often present pictures with confetti all over.

Shutter Speed:

Shutter speed is how fast the curtain in your camera opens and closes. The faster the curtain opens and closes – the more it stops the action and the crisper your in-focus pictures are.

Shutter speeds are measured in fractions of a second, such as 1/30 or 1/250 of a second.

The trade-off: If faster shutter stops action and gives crisper photos, why not always shoot with a fast shutter?

The answer here is that you are at the mercy of your camera. The faster the shutter, the less light can come in. Setting the shutter too fast will result in a dim or black frame. Too slow of a shutter will result in a washed out image.

Exposure:

Exposure can be defined a lot of ways, but basically it is the art of finding the balance between the above three terms.

A properly exposed picture will be taken at just the right F-stop to give perfect focus to your subject with just the right film speed to capture the action, yet not give too much grain, and the shutter speed will work with your F-stop to give the desired lighting and focus.

Metering:

Every camera on the market that takes a battery uses metering to some degree.

Metering is measuring the light to determine what other settings you need for your camera. With some cameras this happens without your knowledge, with more professional cameras it is something you see before you ever take a picture.

The trade-off:

The camera does its best to recommend the right F-stop, shutter speed and (in the case of digital), film speed. But sometimes the camera is tricked by strange lighting condition.

For example, if you are taking a close-up photo in daylight of a person wearing black or dark clothes – the camera may meter on the black clothes and open up too wide. This will result in great looking clothes, but everything else will be washed out. To trick the camera, it is best to meter on the area that you want best exposed.

To force your camera to meter on a given area – point the camera at the subject with the area you want metered in the center of the photo. Once you have focused and metered with the subject in the center (do this by holding your shutter button half way down), you can move your camera to compose the shot however you'd like – as long as you don't let go of the button.

Bracketing:

This is especially important if you are film photographer, but it works with digital as well.

Bracketing is used when you are unsure which settings will work best. Most cameras will do it automatically.

When you know your settings are basically right, set your camera to bracket (see your instruction manual). This will allow your camera to take either 3 or 5 pictures in a row, each with slightly different settings. The middle picture will be taken with the settings you or your camera think are right, the photos before and after will be taken with slightly lower or higher settings to adjust for exposure.


23
Apr 08

Managing your digital photos

Organizing your digital photos is so important. Too often I see people who have major computer problems and think that everything is backed up only to find that their digital photos were so spread out on their computer that the only had a portion of them backed up.

Many people simply copy their digital photos onto their computer wherever a given piece of software puts them and they have no idea where that is. These notes will help you setup a system for managing your digital photos so they will be easy to find and backup even without programs like Picasa.

Here are a few links that will help you:

Rick Castellini’s file management PowerPoint presentation

Everything on HelpMeRick.com about Picasa 

HelpMeRick.com YouTube channel

In order to find your photos, you must establish a good filing system on your computer. The system you choose depends on you and how you use your digital camera.

If you take pictures of family and events, you may prefer to organize your photos by date, person or event. If you shoot nature and wildlife then you may choose to organize by animal, flower or location.

How your computer’s drive hierarchy works:

A: is always your floppy drive

B: is never present because it is your second floppy drive (you probably don’t even have an A:)

C: is your computer’s main hard drive

The next letters are assigned by next available letter in the following order hard drives, CD/DVD drives, removable drives.

To rename a folder or a file – click on it once then press the F2 key. Rename the file then press ENTER on your keyboard.

There is no limit to the number of sub-folders that can be contained within a folder.

 


26
Mar 08

Tips for better people pictures

Tips for taking better people pictures

Here is a list of links that will help you with your pictures of people whether they be candid, portrait or group shots.

10 Tips for better portraits

 5 tips for photographing couples

6 tips for perfect portrait composition

11 tips for better candid photos

 Personally, I think that getting great people shots has more to do with the approach you take to getting the shots rather than following technical advice.

Whenever you are taking pictures, imagine what you would want to see 10 or 20 years from now when going through the album. Don’t worry about the background if you are shooting candid shots at family gatherings. What now may seem like distractions will be come retro points of conversation later. Capture the total atmosphere – this may include an ugly wall or unwanted object in the background.

Shoot lots. Don’t try to carefully compose each shot. Most great photos of people, especially in candid situations are happy accidents. That is the definition of candid.

Always carry your camera. The times you will need your camera the most is the time you don’t have it with you.

Don’t force people to pose in most of your photos. Take pictures of people playing, working or just talking. It will be a memory later. Posing actually came about because early cameras and paintings required the model to stand still long enough to get the picture right. Today’s camera’s don’t require that. Think of your photos as Norman Rockwell illustrations rather than posed portraits.


26
Feb 08

Photoshop Restoration in Elements

Tips and tricks for restoring old photos and removing blemishes digitally

Meeting notes from 02-26-08

Tools needed:

A good scanner

For prints, almost any scanner will do pretty well, but if you are doing small photos, slides or negatives, you will probably want to go with a nicer Epson scanner such as the  Epson Perfection 4490. These scanners offer transparancy scanning for slides and negatives as well as very high 4800 dpi resolution for well under $200.

Scan all images at 600 dpi. The smaller the photo, the higher the resolution. Scan slides and negatives at the highest optical resolution possible (4800 dpi in the case of the Epson mentioned above).

After you have scanned the image in, you will want to save it under two different names such as, “original” and “restored.” This provides a backup incase you need to go back to the original file.

There are two tools that you will use often in Photoshop Elements while restoring photos – the Healing Brush tool and the Clone Stamp tool. Both do essentially the same thing, but the healing tool blends and repairs the photo a little better.

For tips in Photoshop on how to use these tools, you can press the F1 key while using Elements for some very handy tips and tutorials. 


23
Jan 08

Online Photo Editors

Basic photo editing no longer takes special software. You can now do some wonderful things with photos from any computer on almost any browser from anywhere in the world. Online photo editors allow you to edit photos simply by going to a special website.

Once fully loaded, these sites let you resize, adjust brightness and contrast, tweak color and even work with layers. While none of these editors are as robust as Photoshop Elements, they are great for doing basic adjustments especially when working on a computer that is not your own.

Splashup – an excellent photo editor that looks a lot like Photoshop Elements or Corel Paint Shop Pro. It is lacking in any real advanced features, but what it does have it does well. This is the best online editor for people who are used to working with commercial image editing software.

Picnik – an extremely simple image editor that is setup very well for people who are new to image editing. Picnik doesn’t do anything very fancy, but it loads fast and is great for quick tasks like making an image ligher or cropping a photo. 

FotoFlexer – touted as the world’s most advanced photo editor, this service appears to live up to its name. FotoFlexer offers the usual basic fixes but then adds on a dozen or more special effects that are likely not offered by any other single online editor. The Interface of FotoFlexer is also broken up into easy categories so finding the right tool is fairly simple given how complex the site is.

Google search for online editing – I found the above site and many more by searching for “online photo editor” in Google.

You can use any of these programs without setting up an account, but to get all of the features offered including online storage of works in progress. Setting up an account is simple for each of the reviewed programs. Typically all you need is a user name, password, email address and a secret question. 

 


28
Aug 07

Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Scanning

Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Scanning*

*but weren’t sure who to ask.


Every scanner works a little differently, but these terms and tips should help you through the process.

TERMS YOU SHOULD KNOW

Image Editor – This is any program that allows you to manipulate an image. Some titles include Adobe Photoshop and Elements, Jasc Paint Shop Pro, Microsoft PictureIt, and MGI Photosuite.

Scanner Driver – This is the software that allows your scanner to operate. Some scanners such as Visioneer and HP come with bundled software that tries to do too much, all you really need is your scanner driver and preferred image editor.

Import, Aquire, Get Photo – Depending on the Image Editor that you use, the name for this function will vary. This function allows you to scan you image directly into the image editor vs. using the proprietary software that came with your scanner, i.e. Visioneer Paperport.

Prescan or Preview – This function, again, depends on the software that your scanner uses. Clicking on this option allows your scanner to do a quick scan of what is laying on the scanner. This is done prior to the actual scan.

Scan – This is the final step in scanning an image. After you have drawn a box around the subject that you want to scan. If you scanned directly into your image editor, the image will immediately appear in the desired program, no dragging and dropping necessary.

TIPS:

1. Dust off your scanner – use canned air.

2. Scan at a high resolution if you plan to manipulate the image.

3. Don’t let the scanner do all the work. Save tweaking for the image editor

4. 72 dpi for email, 300 dpi for printing, 600+ dpi for manipulating. 

5. Don’t forget to close your scanner driver after you have scanned the image.

SHOPPING FOR A NEW SCANNER

1. 600×1200 minimum
(most available today are at least 2400)

2. Ignore the "Gimmick Buttons" – I don’t mean don’t buy a scanner WITH them, just don’t buy a scanner FOR them.

3. Epson scanners generally provide the best results for scanning transparencies.

4. More expensive scanners often come with more software and may be more durable, but not necessarily better image quality.

THE BASIC SCANNING PROCESS

1. Open your image editor or other photo program.

2. Select the Acquire, Import, Scan or other option that opens your scanner driver.

3. Once your scanner software opens, make sure the resolution is set to at least 300dpi.

4. Click on the preview or prescan button.

5. The image will show up, but it has not officially scanned yet.

6. Draw a box around the area you want to scan by putting the mouse arrow in one corner of the image – holding down the mouse button – and dragging diagonally to the opposite corner.

7. Once you are happy with the selected area, click SCAN.

8. Close your scanner software and the image will be available to save and/or tweak in your image editor opened in step 1.

Links from this month’s meeting

Scanning Tips and Tricks


24
Jul 07

Shutterfly Studio – Online photo services

What good are digital photos if you can’t share them?

 Shutterfly.com is a great website for sharing your digital photos online, but where Shutterfly really shines is what you can do with them offline.

To get started with Shutterfly, you will need to setup a free account. It’s easy and takes less than five minutes. Once you have setup a free account, you can begin uploading your pictures into online albums. These albums will not only help you manage your photos, but you can also share them with anyone you wish.

Shutterfly began as an online develper. 4×6 prints are only $.12 each and they can print all the way up to 20×30″. 15 free prints are provided just for setting up an account. Usually, prints will arrive in the mail in less than a week.

In addition to ordering prints, Shutterfly provides dozens of other options. You can make calendars, Tshirts, coffee mugs, posters, aprons, gift boxes, etc. Two of our favorite photo products are collage posters and gift books.

Shutterfly Studio is a free program that walks you through creating a colllage poster as large as 20×30. The poster can include a single photo or hundreds of photos. Adding photos, moving photos and creating text boxes is extremely easy. A dozen or so layouts are also provided for a very professional looking product.

We also talked about CafePress at the meeting this month. CafePress is a site that allows you to sell photo items on your website. All  items have a base price and you can determine the markup. You keep anything over the base price.




26
Jun 07

10 Things you should know how to do with your digital camera

Here is what we will discuss at tonight's digital photo user group: 

1. How to find information in the Manual
If your camera didn't come with a manual, it is likely on the disk that came with the camera. You may also download it from the manufacturer's website.

2. How to insert and remove the camera memory

3. How to set your camera on full auto mode – this is the setting that lets the camera do all of the thinking
It may be indicated by a green square, the letter "A" or the word AUTO.

4. Discover the purpose behind all of the other shooting modes (i.e. sports, scenery, low light, portrait)
Many photographers think if these modes as cheating. I think of them as the manufacturer's way of saving me a lot of time.

5. How to turn your LCD view finder on and off. This may not be possible if your camera doesn't have an optical view finder

6.  How to change your flash settings (i.e. on, off, red eye)
Turn your flash on in the daytime to prevent contrasty shadows in portraits. Turn your flash off at night for that cool motion blur effect.

7. How to format and/or erase your card

8. How to take/view short movies with your camera

9.  How to view your photos/change length of time photos appear after shooting
Most cameras let you change how long a photo appears after it has been shot. This allows you to quickly look at the screen after a shot is taken to make sure it meets your approval.

10. How to change system settings like time, date, preferred settings, etc


24
Apr 07

Photoshop Elements 5

Adobe Photoshop Elements is the standard photo editing software for consumers and many professionals. The latest edition offers many new features, but are those features worth upgrading from previous versions of the program?

First, there is no upgrade version but since the program can easily be found online for under $70, it won't hurt too bad if you do want to upgrade.

Photoshop Elements has been a solid program since its introduction. Previous consumer photo editing programs only allowed you to make alterations in steps, any fine tuning was out of the question. Elements changed all of that by offering so many professional level tools that many professionals made the switch.

In previous reviews I have explained that Photoshop Elements 2 was worth upgrading from the first edition, but since then, the following editions were not really worth the upgrade.

Personally, I think that Elements 5 is only a minor upgrade from all previous versions, but there are some features that others may find important.

The most insignificant change to Elements 5 is the pretty interface. The tools are in color and the shiny gray polished look is designed to compliment Windows Vista.

The other upgrades pretty much fall into two categories, photo editing and creative/art.

Photo Editing

Curves - Curves are a very advanced feature that, until now, were only offered in a few professional digital photography programs. Typically curves are difficult to understand even for a photographer, but Elements has simplified the feature greatly.

Curves allow you to make fine adjustments to the variations between colors and values. You can use curves to minimize the blowouts that you may get in a brightly lit photo.

Convert to Black and White - There are a variety of ways to convert a photo from color to black and white. In fact, the right way to convert a photo to black and white is always sure to start an arguement among Photoshop users. Elements 5 helps you through this by providing options. You can choose which method you want to use and Elements will do it for you.

Creative/Artistic

Scrapbooking and projects – While Photoshop Elements hasn't changed much as a photo editor, there have been about a dozen changes to Elements creative projects options. Elements 5 provides a whole new set of tools for creating scrapbooks and albums. These features are very basic, but with a little imagination and time learning the program, scrapbookers will be very happy with Elements .

Order prints - Many of the features that Elements 5 has added are in direct competition with Google's Picasa. Whether it's ordering prints or organizing your photos, Picasa is still much easier and more robust.