Posts Tagged: camera


19
Oct 09

A quicker way to Rename folders and files in Windows

Windows XP, Vista and the upcoming version 7 continue to help us accomplish certain computer tasks more quickly.

One of my favorite features involves the renaming of files. You can still use the techniques I outlined in a previous tip, but renaming files can be even faster with the right steps. If you have the need to rename a group of files (for example a group of freshly downloaded pictures from your digital camera), you can select them and rename them in groups. Here’s how: Continue reading →


28
Sep 09

Print Your Own Manual

SDM-LK-164

photo credit: World Bank Photo Collection

To save on printing, shipping and packaging costs, many software and hardware companies no longer provide printed manuals. One of the top complaints I hear from computer users is; “I wish there was a manual.” Instead of printed manuals, many manufacturers use online manuals or Adobe Acrobat files on the item CD to house their manuals.

Often times these manuals contain great information, but can be hard to thumb through on your computer screen. My Canon camera came with a 250 page manual in Adobe Acrobat (PDF) format on the CD. Instead of battling with the online version, I took the CD down to a local printer and had them print and bind it in small format. The total cost was under $25, and now I have a Continue reading →


4
Aug 09

Nikon to release camera with built-in projector

Wow, a digital camera with a built-in projector capable of producing a 40″ image to show off your pictures and video without having to huddle around the camera and hope everyone applied deodorant and brushed their teeth.

Read the whole story in this Endgadget.com article:

Nikon Coolpix S1000pj projector-cam beams into reality along with friends.


13
May 09

Digital Photography School – Digital Photography Tips for You

old photo new tricks - photographer redux

photo credit: Indy Charlie

I stumbled on this fantastic web site the other day and wanted to share it with you. Tons of great tips for digital photographers of all abilities. Check it out!

Digital Photography School – Digital Photography Tips for You.


25
Mar 09

New Canon Digital Rebel Review

For all you camera nuts out there, you might be interested in this review of the Canon EOS Rebel T1i. The Gizmodo crew posted lots of pictures of it, and pictures they took with it. Apparently it has many features of it’s $1500 brother and costs almost half as much. Here’s the link.

Canon EOS Rebel T1i First Hands On: 50D’s Sensor, 1080p Vids, $899 (!!).


10
Feb 09

Digital Photography Basics – February 2009

DIGITAL

photo credit: Hamed Saber

Adam Cochran ran our Digital Photography Special Interest Group (DPSIG) for almost six years and all that great information he shared during that time is archived here at HelpMeRick.com. Make sure to use that information.

In today’s class we covered the basics about digital photography divided into three quick, hard hitting segments:

  1. Using the camera
  2. Transferring the images
  3. Organizing and using the images (including printing and email).

Using the Camera

  • Unless you are an expert film camera user and know all about f-stops, depth of field, focusing, ISO, light metering, etc, stick with using the Auto or the presets on your camera. For the most part, you will be extremely pleased with the results from using the Auto function.
  • The best tip Adam ever taught me about the digital cameras is how to use the camera’s auto light metering. All cameras have this function and it involved the shutter button. Your shutter button has TWO positions. If you hold the shutter part of the way down, you will see (and sometimes hear) the shutter adjusting to the light it is receiving. Keep the shutter depressed partially for a split second to get the proper light reading, then push it the rest of the way to take your picture. I promise that mastering this tip alone will dramatically improve the quality of your pictures.
  • Learn to use your camera’s flash. Typically that involves toggling the lightning bolt icon on the camera to one of at least three settings:  Automatic, forced, or off.  For the most part, you want to use your flash only in the darkest conditions or to offset a subject that is standing in front of a bright light source. Otherwise, learning the second tip will help you avoid using the flash almost entirely.
  • Hold your camera steady and don’t immediately lower it to view the photo you just took. Give it a split second to finish taking the photo before moving it. Combine this tip with tip #2 and you will see photos that you didn’t think were possible.
  • Your camera memory can hold literally hundreds of photos, you really don’t need to delete the “bad” ones. Wait until you get to your computer, download them, then weed them out. Too many mistakes can be made using the clumsy controls on a camera and the small screen.
  • Don’t install the camera’s software…you don’t need it. The alternatives work much better and are easier to use.

Here are a few good articles covering this topic right here at HelpMeRick.com:

Transferring your images to the computer

The easiest way to transfer images from your camera is to use a card reader. Most new computer users come with them pre-installed, but you can purchase a USB version for less than $20. This method saves wear and tear on your camera and saves battery life.

I recommend using Google’s Picasa to download your images, but the next easiest way is to use Windows’ built-in photo transfer wizard.

The important part of transferring your images is to know where they end up. YOU have the power to control that. Most of the time, they will end up in your My Pictures folder (XP) or Pictures folder (Vista).

Organizing and using your pictures

Again, I believe the easiest and most straight forward method is to use Picasa. The built-in tools Windows provides for emailing are pretty good with some email services as well. Third party tools like Canon’s Zoom Browser, Kodak’s Photo Gallery and others seem too clunky to me compared to polished products like Picasa. Two other photo management programs that do a good job are Adobe’s Photoshop Elements Organizer and Creative Memories.

The important factor is that you pick ONE photo organizer, learn it, master it, and move forward with it.

Once you decide on a photo organizer, use its tools to add keywords, albums, and other organization methods so you don’t end up with a giant digital shoe box (a mess). All the photo organizer programs offer good to very good printing utilities, but I think you get the most bang for your buck by transferring your photos to a service for printing or copying them to a CD and taking them to a developer.

Here are some pertinent tips for organizing and using your pictures that we have shared over the years:


25
Sep 08

Setting up a new computer

new computer boxPrevention is the best medicine when it comes to avoiding illness in ourselves. Prevention in the computer world is no different. And like a newborn baby, a newly purchased computer is subject to many terrible diseases and problems if not properly cared from the moment it is taken from its cardboard box. I follow these steps when setting up a new computer system for my clients, and recommend this methodology for all new computer setups:

  1. Before setting up the new computer, back up all of your data to CD’s, DVD’s, external hard drives, or flash drives for transfer to the new computer  Make sure you get not only your obvious data like documents, pictures, and financial data, but also your address book, email settings, favorites, etc. Remember, you can backup data, but not programs.
  2. Make note of your email settings and configuration (if you didn’t back them up).
  3. Download a copy of a AVG Antivirus and have them on a CD or flash drive at the ready.
  4. When setting up the new PC, DO NOT connect printers, scanners, cameras, and especially the Internet until later.
  5. Once at the new desktop, the first place to head is the Control Panel and Add/Remove programs (Programs and Features in Vista). Remove all trial software that you don’t plan on purchasing (Quicken, Quickbooks, Office suites, etc). Also remove any <!–break–>Internet provider software that you will not use like AOL, Earthlink, NetZero, etc.
  6. Now go back to Add/Remove programs and uninstall any trial security software that came with the machine.
  7. If you uninstalled the pre-installed security software (recommended), install the AVG antivirus program you have at the ready.
  8. Now, you can hook up your Internet connection. Once you have a connection established, update your anti-virus software immediately.
  9. Setup your email program and accounts.
  10. Install your peripherals (scanners, printers, etc) per your manufacturers instructions.
  11. Install any programs that you want on the new system
  12. Transfer your data from their backup locations.
  13. Strongly consider downloading and using Mozilla Firefox as your primary browser.
  14. Create your Recovery CD set found in your manufacturer’s options or utilities folder (if required).

    Enjoy your properly setup and safe, new computer!


24
Jun 08

Great digital photography debate topics

Technology is no different than politics in that there are a variety of topics that people have opinions on. While you may not know much about these topics now, what you know about them can have a great impact on knowing who to listen to when it comes to learning more about digital photography and related topics.

PC vs. Mac:

The Mac people will tell you that Macs are better for graphics, easier to use more stable.

PC people will argue that Macs are over priced, you can do anything with a Mac that you can do with a PC and Macs won’t run the programs that most people use.

What’s the truth? As with most debates, where you stand depends on your perspective as all things are relative.

Macs are easier in the sense that it typically takes fewer steps to get from point A to point B, they don’t get viruses and spyware as much and applications are very well developed before they are released; this leads to fewer crashes. Of course there are rare exceptions in all cases.

PCs are easier if you depend on the advice and help from those around you to get you through. Chances are your tech friends and relatives don’t speak Mac. Macs will not run any PC software out of the box. You must either buy Mac versions of programs like Microsoft Office or find alternatives that run on Mac.

If you primarily use your computer for basic tasks like email, digital photography, word processing and Internet, Macs are likely a great way to go. If you are using the computer for office work such as Excel, databases, or custom software associated with your business, you may find that Macs just won’t cut it.

Canon vs. Nikon:

There are dozens of camera manufacturers, but Canon and Nikon are the two major parties that tend to have the greatest loyal followings.

Canon was always the underdog in the film photography world, it wasn’t until they made the move to convert everything to digital that they became serious competition.

Canon film cameras were typically the lower priced alternative for photo enthusiasts. Nikon had the F series of cameras that were used by professional photographers all over the world. Then the world went digital and Canon decided set the standard for photo innovation.

When it comes to serious cameras, both companies produce wonderful cameras worthy of their following. There are a few reasons that each manufacturer stands out.

What’s the truth?

Nikons in general have a more sturdy feel with a shutter that makes a beautiful clapping sound – it may not seem to matter what the shutter sounds like, but it gives the camera a more traditional aesthetic.

Canon’s typically set the standard. They are usually the first to set new standards in shutter speed, megapixel and zoom speed in their higher end models. They are also usually the first to break price barriers on the low and high end. Most 35mm professional photographers such as photo journalists, sports and portrait photographers now use Canons, the industry that once belonged almost exclusively to Nikon in the US.

CCD vs. CMOS:

Just a quick geeky topic here. CCD and CMOS are the current sensor technologies that digital cameras use as “film.” These sensors are exposed to light like film and then the image is saved to the memory.

 CCD is the more traditional technology as it is cheaper to produce and is usually smaller in size.

CMOS contains more technology on the chip and consumes less power. It also costs slightly more to produce but this is quickly changing and many manufacturers are now switching to CMOS for their DSLRs and higher end cameras.

When it comes to image quality, there is no definable difference. Hand a photo to a photographer or camera expert and he will not be able to tell you what kind of sensor was used to take the photo based on quality alone.

Picasa vs. Photoshop Album (combined with Photoshop Elements)

Each of these products does the same thing but they are different in important ways.

We have exhausted the topic of Picasa – it is easy to use, it allows you to backup your photos, create photo CDs, order prints, and organize your photos into albums.

Photoshop Album is a piece of Photoshop Elements. Like Picasa it allows you to organize your photos, create projects and find lost pictures.

What’s the truth?

Picasa is fast and very intuitive. However, if you do a lot of photo manipulation it is nice to have Album incorporated with Elements.

Flash drives vs. CD/DVDs vs. external hard drives:

You know you should backup your photos, but how should you do it?

Flash drives last a long time but they are very expensive when compared to optical media and hard drives. They are also easy to erase and lose. On the other hand their portability gives them a nice advantage in some cases.

CD/DVDs are inexpensive and can be read in any computer. They are also durable and multiple copies are easy to do. On the other hand, they can be difficult to create and can only be written to one time.

Hard drives are cheap and can hold every photo you will ever take. However, they are not as portable and can have major malfunctions leading to the loss of all data.

Ultra zoom vs. DSLR:

Ultra zooms are digital cameras with large built-in zoom lenses. DSLRs are cameras that allow you to change the lenses.

Often people assume that DSLRs are the ultimate camera and all other cameras are for novices. Before buying that DSLR, there are some important pros and cons to consider.

DSLR’s take up much more space and weigh more. When you go for the shot, will you have the right lens attached?

Changing lenses must be done very carefully. dust on your sensor can lead to spotty pictures at best and a ruined camera at worst.

Ultra zooms are light and often feature more powerful and faster lenses than the kit lenses that come with DSLR models.

On the positive side, DSLRs provide the ability to add on to the camera and increase the camera’s uses. Adding a flash, extra lens, shutter release, etc. can be a big advantage if you are looking at taking the hobby seriously.




28
May 08

Understanding exposure

Theory and Practice of Photography

Aperture:

Aperture is the setting of the iris of the camera lens. Just as your pupils in your eyes expand and contract to let in more or less light, you can do the same with your camera by setting the Aperture.

The Aperture measurement is called F-stop. The higher the F-stop number, the smaller the iris is set in your camera.

The trade-off: Each concept of photography seems to have a trade-off that prevents you from wanting to use it all the time.

With Aperture the trade-off is called depth of field. In a perfect world, you would leave the iris open wide all the time so that you could let in as much light as possible. However, when the iris is open wide your focus distance is much shorter. This means if you are taking a picture of your family in front of the St. Louis Arch in the distance, your family may be in focus at a low F-stop, but everything in the background will be blurry.

Tricky Tip: Remember, the higher the number on your F-stop, the smaller the iris is and the less light will come in. This means that when you stop up, you are really making the iris smaller.

F-stop is usually measured in numbers starting with 2.8 and going up to 22. The longer the lens, the higher your lowest F-stop possible. This is because long lenses can't let in as much light.

Film Speed (ISO & ASA):

Film speed determines how sensitive your film (or digital camera sensor is to light). The higher your film speed, the less light you need to get a fully exposed picture.

This makes higher film speeds great for sports and low light conditions because the shutter and can be set faster at a lower F-stop.

The trade-off: If faster film speeds are more sensitive to light and capture fast action better, why not always use a high film speed?

The higher the film speed – the more grainy the photo is. Grain refers to the tiny dots of random colors that appear in a photo. Shooting with 400, 800 or 1600 speed film or sensor settings will often present pictures with confetti all over.

Shutter Speed:

Shutter speed is how fast the curtain in your camera opens and closes. The faster the curtain opens and closes – the more it stops the action and the crisper your in-focus pictures are.

Shutter speeds are measured in fractions of a second, such as 1/30 or 1/250 of a second.

The trade-off: If faster shutter stops action and gives crisper photos, why not always shoot with a fast shutter?

The answer here is that you are at the mercy of your camera. The faster the shutter, the less light can come in. Setting the shutter too fast will result in a dim or black frame. Too slow of a shutter will result in a washed out image.

Exposure:

Exposure can be defined a lot of ways, but basically it is the art of finding the balance between the above three terms.

A properly exposed picture will be taken at just the right F-stop to give perfect focus to your subject with just the right film speed to capture the action, yet not give too much grain, and the shutter speed will work with your F-stop to give the desired lighting and focus.

Metering:

Every camera on the market that takes a battery uses metering to some degree.

Metering is measuring the light to determine what other settings you need for your camera. With some cameras this happens without your knowledge, with more professional cameras it is something you see before you ever take a picture.

The trade-off:

The camera does its best to recommend the right F-stop, shutter speed and (in the case of digital), film speed. But sometimes the camera is tricked by strange lighting condition.

For example, if you are taking a close-up photo in daylight of a person wearing black or dark clothes – the camera may meter on the black clothes and open up too wide. This will result in great looking clothes, but everything else will be washed out. To trick the camera, it is best to meter on the area that you want best exposed.

To force your camera to meter on a given area – point the camera at the subject with the area you want metered in the center of the photo. Once you have focused and metered with the subject in the center (do this by holding your shutter button half way down), you can move your camera to compose the shot however you'd like – as long as you don't let go of the button.

Bracketing:

This is especially important if you are film photographer, but it works with digital as well.

Bracketing is used when you are unsure which settings will work best. Most cameras will do it automatically.

When you know your settings are basically right, set your camera to bracket (see your instruction manual). This will allow your camera to take either 3 or 5 pictures in a row, each with slightly different settings. The middle picture will be taken with the settings you or your camera think are right, the photos before and after will be taken with slightly lower or higher settings to adjust for exposure.


5
May 08

Craigslist is full of scammers – but they are easy to spot

I recently wrote about the wonders of Craislist both on HelpMeRick.com and in our free weekly email newsletter.

Someone posted a comment that I think needs to be addressed. There are many many scammers on Craigslist. However, they are stupid and easy to detect.

Here are a list of ways to detect a craigslist scammer.

1. The item is priced very low, but not too low. A $50 digital camera that retails for $5,000 is obviously a scam. Craigslist scammers typically would price such an item at $1,100 making it almost believable. Think about it, would anyone really sell an item for half as much as they could easily sell it for on eBay.

2. Location is not given or is vague. Real listers usually list details about where they are located. For example the Denver Craigslist will list locations such as Arvada, Englewood, Denver Metro, etc. If no location is given, feel free to write but the responder will likely say that they are vacationing or schooling in Manchester, UK or Cameroon.

3. Seller just happens to be out of the country. Don’t buy anything from out of the country – EVER!

4. If you suspect that the item is a scam and you can’t go see it due to location or other problems, ask to have the seller send a very specific picture that would require the item to be on hand by the seller.

This list may make Craigslist seem scary, but the warnings should follow common sense.